Cuff.



GUIP.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. 21, 1909. RBNEWED 00T, Z5, 1913.b 1,080,880. Patented Dec. 2, 1913.

C. H. SMITH.

7 2J. l' H X j. :R S Sd WW1/mou' A @www1/boa 'y wlswc/mfm #swf/1 CLINTON H. SMITH, OF EAST ORANGE, NEW JERSEY.

CUFF.

Specification of Letters Patent.

llatcnted Dec. 2,1913.

Application filed August 21, 1909, Serial No. 513,924. 'Renewed October 25, 1913. Serial No. 797,328.

To all 'whom i?? may concern Be it known that I, CLINTON H. Srrrrn, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of East Orange, in the county of .Essex and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Cutts, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to the manufacture of cuffs and more particularly to cuffs which are permanently secured to the sleeves of a shirt during its manufacture.

The main object of my invention is to provide a cuit which will not crack at the edge after it has been laundried and bent to insert the cuff-buttons.

A further object is to provide a cuil' which will have the above advantage and at the same time retain the reinforced, stift' edge and bead common to cufis of good make.

A still further object is to attain a cult which will have the above advantage of not cracking and at the same time still retain the usual smooth outward appearance.

As is well known it is now the common practice to manufacture shirts, especially the higher' grade ones, with cutl's permanently attached to the sleeves. lVhen the shirts are laundried a few times and the cuffs bent around to insert the buttons or links, the cuffs crack at the outer edge which practically ends the life of the entire shirt even though the shirt proper remains perfectly good. This condition becomes very annoying and expensive especially in the higher priced shirts, and some manufacturers, recognizing this defect, have provided an extra pair of cuffs with each shirt, to be attached thereto when the original cuffs crack. "While this has lengthened the life of the shirt, it has been found that even after the second pair of cuffs have cracked the shirt proper is still in first class condition. Further in the latter instance, it is necessary to employ some one to remove the old cuffs and attach the new ones as it requires more or less skill which is ordinarily not possessed by a layman. As is well known, this cracking of the cuil' is due to the great lthickness of material at the edge of the cuil' which custom demands should be very stiff to properly hold its shape, custom also demanding that a bead be provided. By my invention, to give a smooth appearance to the cuff, some of the thicknesses of material in the reinforced edge are cut away at the middle of the cuff where it bends when turned to insert the cuil' links and in such a way that the edge still retains its stitiness and the customary bead.

Bv constructing eutl's in accordance with my invention it has been found, by actual practice, that they can he laundried and bent a great many times without in the least way showing any signs of cracking and in fact many more times than any shirt could stand being laundried and it is thus assured that cutis so constructed will be of equal life with the shirt to which they are attached.

While the greatest use for my invention is in cutis attached to shirts, it will be understood that m`y invention is not'I limited to this style of eutl's as it can equally well be applied to other styles without departing from the spirit thereof.

To these ends my invention consists in the improved cutl hereinafter more particularly described and then specified in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings Figure l is a developed plan of a cuff constructed in accordance with the preferred manner of carrying out my invention, the material of the cuilA being shown sewn together previous to turning. Fig. Q is a transverse section on the line X X Fig. l and showing the thickness of material greatly exaggerated. Fig. 3 is a similar section after the cuil has been turned and the stitching seam run to secure the material in its final position. Fig. l is a similar section to Fig. 3 but taken at a point beyond the cut out part of the edge.

In constructing the cuit, two pieces of the body cloth, l, 2, are placed one upon the other and upon them is placed the shrunk interlining 3 doubled upon itself and consisting preferably of heavier and stiffer material than the body cloth, l, 2, and by means of which the cuil is given its desired stiffness. The different pieces are then sewed together at their top and sides by the running seam 4L located approximately g1 inch from the edge of the superposed layers. Preferably both thicknesses of the interlining 3 at the middle of the cuff are cut away, starting at the edge and extending to a depth nearly reaching the running seam 4f, but preferably leaving a small amount of material beyond the seam. The cut preferably graduates in depth from its starting point at the edge toward the seam, the bottom or lowermost part of the cut preferably running parallel with the scam 4l for a short distance either side of the middle line of the cui and thereby when the cuff is turned over there will be no sudden great diil'erence in thickness in the cuff which would mar its outer surface when ironed. Also to further avoid any sharp distinction or shoulder at the beginning of the cut away portion, the side lines of the cut in the different layers do not coincide, the cut away part 5 of the upper layer being longer than; the cut 6 of an intermediate layer. AfterA the desired portions are cut away, the cuff is then turned right side out to bring the two pieces of body cloth l, 2 on the outside of the interlining as shown in Fig. 3. Then turned the layer of body cloth 2 which comes on the inside of the cuil is drawn down to form the usual bead 7 and the stitching seam 8 is run along close to the edge of the inturned part beyond the running seam il.: By allowing a little of the material of the interlinings to remain beyond the running seam 1L at the cut-out portions 5 and G, az continuous bead 7 is obtained along the edge' of the cuff and thereby the cuilo will present the same outward appearance as cutis con-` structed in the ordinary way, but owing toj the interlinings having been cut away at the place where the cuH bends, the edge is not so unyielding and liable to crack and@ owing to the graduated thickness from the heaviest toward the thinnest part, any mars ring or distinct shoulders will not appear.

when the cu is ironed. lt will be obvious that the cut-out portions might take other shapes without departing from the spirit of my invention, but for the reasons stated above and by actual practice, it is found that when formed as shown and described the best results are attained.

`What I claim as my invention is:

l. A cuiil provided with a reinforced edge and having one or more thicknesses of the inner material cut out between the running seam and the stitching seam, the interlinings at said cut out portion being fastened down by said ruiming seam.

2. A cuil' provided with a reinforced edge between the running seam and the stitching seam, said reinforcement consisting of superposed layers, of inter-lining and having portions of said inter-lining between said seams cut away, whereby the thickness of the edge between said seams is less at the middle of the cui than at other points and the inter-linings gradually increasing in thickness as the distance increases from the middle of the cuii as and for the purpose described.

Signed at New York in the county of New York and State of New York this 20th day of August A. D. 1909 CLNTN H. SMITH.

Witnesses IRENE Lnriiowrrz, C. T. Tisorrnnn, Jr.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C. 

